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WCS Cucumbers - Patio Snacker

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Patio Snacker cucumber seeds produce compact little plants that grow to only 90-150cm (36-60"), but producing numerous full-sized slicing cucumbers from mid-summer on. Trellis the little plants, or try them in a hanging basket and allow the short vines to spill over the sides. Patio Snacker is a parthenocarpic variety, bred with the small-space gardener in mind, so it's ideal for balcony growing. Be sure to keep the plants picked so that new flowers and fruits continue to come.

Matures in 50-55 days. (Hybrid seeds)

    • Perfect for patio containers
    • Regular sized cucumbers
    • Compact growth
    • Parthenocarpic

Exposure Full-sun

Season Warm season

Seed type F1 


2025 Gardening Guide     Companion Planting Guides 

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All About Patio Snacker

Latin

Difficulty 

We Recommend

Season & Zone


Timing

Starting

Days to Maturity

Growing

Harvest

Seed Info

Diseases & Pests



Companion Planting

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Gardens don’t just grow seeds. They grow minds and imaginations, people and communities. Our vision encompasses both the micro and the macro. We eat locally, protect pollinators, teach people to grow from seed, and support regional biodiversity. We think big but act small and deliver unexpected impact — always with community and purpose.

How to Grow Cucumber

Step 1

Timing

Cucumbers need very warm soil to germinate. If direct sowing, wait until mid-June. If weather turns cool and wet after that, just re-sow. Or start transplants indoors in individual peat or coir pots 3-4 weeks before transplanting out into warm soil. If starting indoors, use bottom heat. Transplant when the plants develop their third true leaf. If the plants are too big, they may experience transplant shock. Optimal soil temperature for germination (and transplanting): 15-30°C (60-85°F).

Step 2

Starting

Sow 3-4 seeds 2cm (1″) deep in each spot you want a plant to grow. Thin to the strongest seedling. Space plants 23cm (9″) apart in rows 90cm (36″) apart.

Step 3

Growing

Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8.

Choose a warm, well-drained soil. Raised beds work well. Add diolomite lime and compost or well-rotted manure to the bed and ½-1 cup of complete organic fertilizer mixed into the soil beneath each transplant. Cucumbers are vigorous and need lots of nutrition and water. Use plastic mulch, plant under floating row cover or cloches – anything to warm things up. Once the weather warms up, keep soil evenly moist. When plants begin to flower, remove covers so bees can access the flowers to pollinate. Fruit that is not fully pollinated will be very small and shriveled, and should be removed from the plant. Most varieties should produce fruits until the weather begins to cool down. Keep plants well picked for better production. Try to water the soil only, keeping the leaves as dry as possible.

Almost all cucumbers benefit from being trained onto a trellis of some kind. Some vines can reach 7 or 8 feet in length, so growing them upward onto a trellis makes good use of garden space. Fruits that grow hanging into space tend to be straighter than those that form on the ground.

Step 4

Germination

Days to maturity: From transplant date.

In optimal conditions at least 60% of seeds will germinate. Usual seed life: 3 years. Per 100′ row: 240 seeds, per acre: 35M seeds.

Step 5

Harvest

For a continuous harvest, make successive plantings every 2 to 3 weeks until about 3 months before first fall frost date. Keep picking the cucumbers regularly, because if they get too big, the plant will stop producing. About one month before first frost, start pinching off new flowers so plants channel energy into ripening existing fruit.

Tips

Disease & Pests

 Several diseases attack cucumbers, but problems with this plant are mostly caused by cultural practices that stress the plants. Make sure to keep the garden clean and tidy, remove diseased material and do not compost. Avoid overwatering and directly spraying water on to the leaves. Plant in a well-drained site and follow strict crop rotations. Whenever possible, use disease resistant varieties.

If pests are present, young plants are best protected with floating row covers that are removed when flowering starts. Aphids, cutworms and thrips can be a nuisance. The cucumber beetle may cause problems east of the Rockies.

Sometimes fruit begins to rot on the vine. This is caused by a fungus during periods of high humidity. Pick these fruit off. The situation will improve as the weather improves.

Powdery Mildew – An airborne fungal disease that causes white spots on the leaves at the end of the season. Several home-sprays are said to be somewhat effective. Spray any of the following at 7-10 day intervals. 1tsp baking soda and 1 quart of water with a squirt of dish soap, or 1 part milk to 9 parts of water. Resistant varieties get the mildew just a few days later than the other varieties.


Various wilts cause the vines to wilt and die. Controls are strict sanitation in the garden and greenhouse. Avoid over-watering, plant in well-drained soil, use long rotations, and use disease resistant varieties when available.


Predatory insects will be attracted to the site and will benefit greatly by an interplanting of Sweet Alyssum, dill, or cilantro. Place shallow dishes of water with small protruding rocks in amongst the cucumbers for beneficial insects to stop and have a drink. They’ll lay more eggs, eat more pests, and be more effective if you provide for their needs right where the problem occurs in the garden.


Cutworms can be handpicked during the day if small pieces of wood or cardboard are laid out near the cucumbers for them to hide under.

Companion Planting

Plant cucumbers beside asparagus, beans, Brassicas, celery, corn, dill, kohlrabi, lettuce, onion, peas, radish, and tomatoes. Avoid planting near potatoes and sage. Both corn and sunflowers can act as a trellis for cucumbers to good effect. Dill will help cucumbers by attracting predatory insects, and nasturtiums is said to improve the flavour and growth of cucumbers.

Customer Reviews & Questions

Customer Reviews

4.5

4.5 star rating

Based on 20 reviews

4.5 out of 5 stars Based on 20 reviews

1

0

2

1

3

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4

4

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C

Chloe

Verified Reviewer

4 star rating

Tasty, fairly productive plant

I transplanted two plants together in a grow bag (I believe it's 10 gal). They trellised nicely up three bamboo poles and started producing fairly quickly. I've gotten 4-5 cucumbers off the two plants combined, but in early August they became the first plants in my garden to succumb to powdery mildew.

Read moreread more about review content I transplanted two plants together

19/08/24

AS

Anujaq S.

Verified Buyer

5 star rating

The best cucumner

Wonderful fast growing.

read more about review content

05/08/24

SB

Shanna B.

Verified Reviewer

5 star rating

A great choice for hydroponic growing!

Patio Snacker grows perfectly in my indoor hydroponic garden without the need for any pollination. Cucumbers taste fresh and not bitter at all. Very happy with this variety.

read more about review content Patio Snacker grows perfectly in

23/06/24

CS

Cassandra...

Verified Buyer

5 star rating

Patio Snacker Cucumbers

May 30th in zone 5b and there are baby cukes on the vines already!!! Started seeds end of March and they keep growing.

read more about review content May 30th in zone 5b and there are

30/05/24

AR

Annette R.

Verified Buyer

5 star rating

Fantastic product

Patio Snackers germinated 100% in the MarsHydro tent. The cucumbers have been planted outside and thriving. I've been buying these from West Coast Seeds for years. Service is excellent, the product is fantastic.

read more about review content Patio Snackers germinated 100%

+6

14/05/24

1234

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